The Use Of Adjustable Gas Blocks To Tame Hot AR-15 Gas Systems
BY Herschel SmithThis guy doesn’t like the idea.
I do not at all think that an adjustable gas block is the best answer to tame an over-active AR-platform gas system—and that means one that operates too quickly, too forcefully. When that’s at issue, gun parts and cartridge cases get beaten unnecessarily, and, if it’s “bad enough,” function problems result—most commonly ejection and feeding failures. Various barrel length, gas system length and cartridge combinations conspire to create this condition. It’s most common with shorter systems, such as carbines, and also with longer than usual barrels using a rifle-length system.
An adjustable gas block houses valving apparatus that’s user-adjustable. Some vent away or bleed off unwanted gas, others restrict or limit the flow of the gas into and through the system. Those that vent tend to hold up better longer.
Clearly, the idea is to install the adjustable gas block and then turn it “down.” Great idea! It’s easy, effective and it doesn’t last forever.
The valving in the block succumbs to the same heat- and pressure-induced erosion (flame cutting) as does a standard system (and as does the chamber throat and gas port) and will change, and it will get dirty, maybe corroded, and might lose its capacity for adjustment. Gas-induced erosion, by the way, increases space volume and that will effectively reduce pressure, so that means a tuned gun might not work after time unless the valve can be readjusted.
Adjustable gas blocks are best in the hands of competitive shooters, and are most wisely used only in rifle-length gas systems. One can work well to tune out percussion-induced rifle movement and will improve spent case condition. The farther ahead the block is from the rifle chamber, the less intense is the pressure and flame.
A recent article I wrote here discussed the importance and effectiveness of making essential “architectural” changes in the gas system to get closer to the original Stoner rifle spec combination of port location and barrel length (which works just fine, and dandy). However, I will quickly concede that valving might be the only reasonable solution. If we have to work within already-set specs that aren’t nearly ideal, then we may also have to work around that, and there’s the value of the valve.
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I turn one all the way down, all the way closed, and then open it up until the gun works, plus a little more to ensure full function. The “full-function” test, by the way, and this is important, is that the bolt carrier assembly will go to lock-back on the last round. It takes a little more carrier velocity to get it back far enough to trip and set the bolt stop than it does only to strip the next round from the magazine. Don’t cut it too close!
I have to say I’m a bit unmoved by his dislike of this particular use of adjustable gas blocks. Look, the original barrel length in the Stoner rifle is still out there and can be purchased, but it’s much less frequent to see a full assembly for sale. Mostly, if you want one, you’ll need to order the barrel and replace the one you have, including the gas system.
So we’re dealing with typically shorter barrels now, some as long as 18″, some much shorter (14.5″ with a welded and staked flash hider, or even shorter for AR pistols). To me, if your gun begins to malfunction and it’s obviously not the barrel or chamber, the first place to look is the BCG, the second is the buffer spring, and the third is the gas system (including the gas block).
Replacement of all gas blocks will be necessary given the second law of thermodynamics. If gunsmiths or gun mechanics disagree with my assessment, I’m not married to it. Please disagree, and state the reasons for your disagreement.